-No Refunds
-Returns are for Exchange or Store Credit Only, Within 30 Days of Purchase.
-Post-Sale Modifications, Such as Resizing, are Subject to Additional Shipping Charges.

-ALL 14k Gold Purchase are Final and are NOT Eligible for Return or Store Credit.
-Please Confirm Sizing, Length, Colors, etc. for Accuracy Before Ordering.

Keys to Ordering

When Your Order Will Be Ready And Rush Dates

Each day we post an "Order Due Date" on our Home Page & Below.



This date anticipates when orders placed "today" will be ready to ship. This date is not a promise of when you will receive your mailed package. If you have a special target date which you would like to receive an order, please contact us prior to placing your order and we will be glad to confirm shipping specifics with the shipping provider of your choice. If you need your order ready earlier than the posted Due Date; simply email us with your request and we will schedule your RUSH DATE.

(There is no additional charge to have an order "Rushed".)


If you have a fast approaching need for an item, remember, the sooner you order, the sooner we can get your items to you�do not assume we will have all of your items in stock. Also, realize that weekends, seasons and holidays can all affect the speed and efficiency of the mail service providers; be sure to select your provider and service with these factors in mind. Finally, the suggested shipping times below indicate the estimated time of shipping from our facilities to your door, once the order has been filled, not from the time the order was placed. Please keep all of these aspects in mind when ordering and select your preferred method of delivery accordingly.

Tailoring Your Order


Special Jewelry Options


A necklaceis perhaps the easiest article of jewelry to size. All you need is a length of string. Drape the string around your neck, let it hang to the position you prefer and tie it off. Once you've let it hang naturally, unassisted by you, then you can untieand measure it. Two words to the wise: first, don't just hold the string up to your neckline, actually tie it around your neck and let gravity hang it. If you merely hold it up, you'll lose some length (you'd be surprised how much of a difference an inch or two can make). Second, a necklace made up of thick, bulky links is going to "wear" shorter than a thin diameter chain; thus, allow one to three inches extra when measuring with a thin string. A thin string can work fine when measuring for a thick chain, if you compensate for the thickness of the chain you are sizing for. If truly in doubt, use a thick cord or rope when calculating length for a bulky necklace. Of course, an almost foolproof method of sizing for necklaces is to measure one you already have, taking care not to assume that your current thin chain will hit at the same spot as a thick one, and vice versa. An adequate rule of thumb is that an 18-inch necklacehits at about the collar bone, a 22-inch necklaceat about the first button down from the collar, and a 28-inch necklaceat about the middle of the sternum (breast bone). If youaren't very good at spatial and length visualization, then go window shopping.Go to a local jewelry store and try on necklaces of various lengths and thickness. Many of our designs are comprised of links that will accept the hook at any length, allowing for great versatility. These necklaces adjust freely to work with various necklines. More complex designs,in whichthe hookmust link at a particular placeon the chain, are created with with at least 2 inchesof attachment links at the end. This stretch of small links provides a built-in adjustability; thus, an 18-inch chain of this nature will be 18 inches at its longest and 16 inchesat its shortest. 15 inchesis generally considered a true "choker" length; though, 14 inchesand 16 inches are often purchased as neck-hugging chokers because of the size of the wearer. We make most of our chainsin lengths of14 to 36 inches. If you wish toinquire about one of our designs in a different length than those offered in the catalog, please e-mail us your request. Some designs are not offered in lengths other than those listed in the catalog because they have specific design attributes that don't lend themselves to use in other lengths.

Link Bracelets

Our link bracelets come 8 inches standard. While they can also be purchased in 7-inch and 9-inch lengths, any other length would need to be specially ordered. (Please e-mail all such requests to us.) Many of the link bracelets are comprised of links, all of which are large enough to accept the hook. Thus, these bracelets can be attached anywhere along its length and fit almost any size wrist. If the wrist in question is very small, too many links might end up hanging off and need to be removed. Rarely will even the smallest wrist need a bracelet shorter than 6 inches. Bracelets that are made from links too small or too complex to accept the hook, end with three small attachment circles that allow for an inch of adjustment in size. As with thick necklaces, bracelets with thick links need more length to provide the same free range of motion as those withthinner links. Additionally, one bracelet might fit you well, but when worn with multiples they might feel tight; consider how your multiples are going to fit and move in relation to one another. The best thing to do when determining your bracelet size is to measure a similar style bracelet that you already own. If you resort to using string or a tape measure (not recommended) don't measure tightly, the string is likely to stretch and give you a measurement that is woefully too short. Remember, you are determining the size of the bracelet you wear, not the size of your wrist. Measuring the circumference of your wrist and then "guess-timating" how much length to add never works well.

CAUTION: Link bracelets are not recommended for infants and toddlers, as these bracelets can be swallowed!

Hard Bracelets

Hard Bracelets come in three major styles: "O", "C", and Buckle.

"O"-Style Hard Bracelets

"O"-Style Bracelets, commonly referred to as bangles, are the most popular form of hard bracelets. As they are completely circular in shape, they are the least likely to fall off. And as they have no clasps or working parts, they are the easiest to put on and remove. As long as the bangle bracelet is the right fit, sliding it over the hand is all it takes. The only downfall to a bangle is that though it is ultimately worn on the wrist, it is actually sized for the hand. As it needs to get over the hand to get to the wrist, it has to be bigger than both the hand and the wrist. You don't have to have big hands to run into a problem with bangles that don't fit. It's all a matter of proportion; if your wrist is just too much smaller than your hand, bangles can hang uncomfortably low on your hand or flop uncontrollably about your arm. As a general rule, if your bracelet fits your wrist but is painful to get on and off, then it's too small. In all matters of sizing, the final determining factor is personal preference. Whatever might be the ideal, some people are just going to want their bracelets tight, and some people are going to prefer them loose. You know who you are, and as long as you are aware of the precautions that need to be taken for the two conditions, you'll be fine. If you like them tight, then you're not going to want to be putting small bangles on and off frequently and causing red and swollen wrists and hands. Likewise large, loose bangles are more likely to fall off without you knowing it, especially when taking off clothes. Bangles in general are very dynamic; some people don't like bangles, as their rigid nature can be uncomfortable when pressed against a table, and they tend to make a lot of noise. But, of course, as many people desire bangles for these very qualities as those who do not. Because the hand is an awkwardly-shaped instrument, it is very hard to size for bangles accurately in any way other than with a circular sizer. String and tape measures are not reliable when sizing the hand for "O"-style bracelets. Trying to measure the perimeter of the oddly-shaped hand and converting it to the circumference of a bracelet just doesn't work successfully; owing in large part to the fact that an error as small as a quarter of an inch can make an enormous difference. Again, finding a bangle that fits and measuring its diameter is the best solution. When measuring the bangle, place the bracelet on a ruler so that the measuring line runs directly across the center of the circle. Measure from one side of the bracelet to the other, but do not include the thickness of the bracelet wall. Including the thickness of the bracelet will add extra size to the measurement. Using the "O"-style Bracelet Sizing Chart you can measure your existing bangle. Once you have printed a copy of the "O"-style Bracelet Sizing Chart, lay your current bangle over the circles until the bracelet is just that much bigger than the circle on the page. If the bracelet covers the line, then the bracelet is a half size smaller than that circle measures for: that is to say, if the bracelet perfectly covers the circle for size 6, then your bracelet is a size 5.5. If the circle is visible, with about a line's width between the bracelet and the circle then that is a correct measurement for that bracelet. If there is much more space between the bracelet and circle, keep moving down until the distance is less (as described above).

As a last resort, if you have no bracelet to size, the sizing charts can be used to visually estimate the size you need. Please pay attention to the style of bracelet you wish to order and use the appropriate sizing chart. NOTE: a size 6 "O"-style bangle does not correspond to a size 6 buckle cuff, and vise versa.

NOTE: These Sizing Charts must be printed at 100% scale, any reduction during the printing process will yield inaccurate measurements.

"C"-Style Hard Bracelets

"C"-Style hard bracelets have an advantage over bangle bracelets because they need to be sized only for the wrist and not the hand. A potential drawback is that a C-Style bracelet is always "open" and can fall off easily if it is worn too big. There are three critical dimensions to be considered when choosing a cuff. The first is the diameter, or how wide the inside of the bracelet is in order to comfortably span the top breadth, the widest part of your wrist. The second is the depth --from the top of your wrist straight through your arm to the palm side of your wrist.The third is the gape of the opening, or throat. If the throat is too small, you'll injure yourself trying to get it on or, at the very least, severely scrape your wrist. If the throat is too big,you can say good bye to your cuff bracelet. Generally speaking, the throat should be just smaller than the thickness of the wrist, as viewed from the side, not from the top.A cuff bracelet should pass over the bones, tendons and veins without causing pain or leaving noticeable red marks. The wrist varies in thickness; putthe cuff on at the thinnest area with the fewest obstacles. Once on, the bracelet should not be able to spin completely around the wrist. With a cuff, up is up and down is down. If it can spin, it's too big. Finally,a cuff should be big enough to move over the wrist bones easily, but not so big that it slides down deep into the palm of the hand. Use the "C"-Style Bracelet Sizing Chart just as you use the "O"-Style Bracelet Sizing Chart. Place the cuff flat on the "ovals" until you find the one that can serve as an inside tracing. For example, if the cuff totally covers the line of the size 8 drawing, then the cuff is a half size smaller, or 7.5. If more than a pencil line is visible between the bracelet and the sizing line, then move down in size until only a thin line's width separates the bracelet from the sizing line. Some people don't like how tight a cuff often needs to be, especially when they have prominent wrist bones. If a cuff doesn't slide over these bones, it will be stuck on one or the other and feel like a shackle and ultimately restrict hand movement. On the other hand, as long as a cuff bracelet is correctly proportioned, many people love its tailored fit.

As a last resort, if you have no bracelet to size, the sizing charts can be used to visually estimate the size you need. Please pay attention to the style of bracelet that you wish to order and use the appropriate sizing chart. NOTE: a size 6 "O"-Style bangle does not correspond to a size 6 buckle cuff, and vise versa.

NOTE: These Sizing Charts must be printed at 100% scale, any reduction during the printing process will yield inaccurate measurements.

Buckle Hard Bracelets

Buckle bracelets are the best of both bracelet worlds; the security of a bangle and the fine fit of a cuff. As a buckle is C-shaped, just like a cuff, the sizing for both is much the same. The only real difference is that the throat can be smaller than that of the cuff. Because a cuff is always "open" it has to be thick enough to support itself and not bend easily. A buckle bracelet, when connected, is self-supporting like a bangle. But with a narrower throat it must have thinner, more flexible walls so that some flexing is possible when sliding the bracelet over the wrist. Like the cuff, the buckle bracelet should not be so big that it spins; you want to be the one who decides if the buckle is worn up or down, not gravity. Also like the cuff, the buckle should be loose enough to comfortably move over the bones of the wrist. Use the Buckle Bracelet Sizing Chart to determine an inside tracing that fits the buckle you already have. This style of bracelet is best for small children and even babies. The two best designs for the youngsters are the Goddess and Heart Cuff: they are inexpensive, sturdy and make safe teething rings.

As a last resort, if you have no bracelet to size, the sizing charts can be used to visually estimate what size you need. Please pay attention to what style of bracelet you wish to order and use the appropriate sizing chart. NOTE: a size 6 "O"-style bangle does not correspond to a size 6 buckle cuff, and vice versa.

NOTE: These Sizing Charts must be printed at 100% scale, any reduction during the printing process will yield inaccurate measurements.

Email to Request Printable Hard Bracelet Sizing Charts:

  • Email with Subject Line: ALL Bracelet Sizing Charts
  • Email with Subject Line: "O"-Style Bracelet Sizing Charts
  • Email with Subject Line: "C"-Style Bracelet Sizing Charts
  • Email with Subject Line: Buckle Bracelet Sizing Charts


Rings are perhaps the most frequently sized and most commonly miss-sized article of jewelry. This is primarily because a thin band fits looser than a thick one. An 1/8-inch wide finger sizer should be used for narrow bands that are less than1/4 incheswide. A 1/4-inch wide finger sizer should be used for band widths greater than 1/4 inch. When being sized for a ring, don't make the mistake of settling for a size that merely feels good because it is simply better than the last one you tried. A good method to follow is to try several sizes until you have gone from too small to too big, then work your way back to the best fit. Remember that, just because the ring is narrower than 1/4 inch, it may fit too tightly if worn with another ring. Also, it should be noted that if you have an existing ring measured for size and it is no longer perfectly round, it will read smaller than you really need. It is always best to have your finger measured for size. Finally, care should be taken when sizing for rings that are weighted on top. Top-heavy rings tend to spin, especially when they are too big. This can be very annoying and distract from the presentation and enjoyment of the ring if you are constantly having to turn your lazy ring right-side up. Another reason rings can be so hard to size is because fingers fluctuate in size from hour to hour, day to day, and season to season. These shifts can be quite dramatic because of temperature, diet, and body cycles. Try to use your knowledge of your own fluctuations in relationship to the time of day and the date when your ring is sized. Also, be specific about which finger you plan to wear the ring on; if you think you'll just get a "medium" size and share it between several fingers, you might end up with a ring that doesn't fit any finger at all. Finally, toe rings are the most difficult to size. Toes are usually disproportionally bulbous at the end, requiring a ring relatively larger than the actual toe. Unless it is almost painful to get the ring over the tip of the toe, it will slip right off again. Toe rings need to be tight when they are put on.


Generally, anklets should rest just below the protrusion of the ankle bones. Although many of our link designs can serve as anklets, some absolutely cannot. We have tried to indicate which styles best lend themselves to use as anklets. When you see a design you would like as an anklet but it is not indicated as an anklet style, it is usually because it is uncomfortable on the ankle or it does not lay well. Anklets are more like necklaces than bracelets. You should inquire about any design that we have not indicated as an anklet design before you order one.

Earring Format Options

Our earrings are available in a variety of formats to meet both your needs and to best showcase the particular style of earring you select. Range of motion, position on the ear and interaction withand complementation of the face and hair are the key criteria to consider when choosingan earring format. Swing Wires and Swing Posts give the greatest motion. Fixed Wires and Fixed Posts shorten up the length of the earring and allow for a more conservative presentation. For those without pierced ears,we offer two Clip Back options, which are discussed below.

Earring Jackets

Sterling Silver Earring Jackets are the perfect accent to you favorite stud earrings. Don't have any studs? Choose from our Disc, Nuggets or Cubic Zirconia Studs.


1/8" Disc Studs


Sterling Silver Nugget Studs


Cubic Zirconia Studs

Non-Pierced Earrings

A good number of our designs can be made for non-pierced ears, but not all.Please refer to the design catalog to discover which designs are non-pierced compatible. We offer two styles of clip-on for non-pierced ears. The first style allows forthe earring's main element to dangle from the clip back. The earring designs that are compatible with this kind of clip back are denoted by DCB (dangle clip back) in the "style" option field. The second style is for the more traditional "button" form, which positions the earring directly on the lobe of the ear. This clip does not have the ornamental ball found on the dangle clip back, so that the finding can be soldered right to the back of the earring. Earrings that can employ this style of clip back are indicated by FCB (fixed clip back) in the design catalog. Both styles of clip backs are high quality findings, with very good tension that will not pinch. Although they are not adjustable like screw backs, they don't loosen up like screw backs. For the mechanically inclined, these clips can be adjusted periodically by slightly bending the arm of the backing to reduce or increase tension. Note: all non-pierced findings have their limitations; the heavier the earring, the less effective the finding is in keeping the earring on the ear -- so be realistic when considering large earrings for use with clip backs. The prices for clip backs are listed below and are in addition to the price of the earrings.

Non-Pierced Earring Pricing

SSDCB Sterling Silver Clip Backs (Dangle w/ball) $30 each
SSFB Sterling Silver Clip Backs (Fixed w/pad) $30 each

14KGFDCB 14K Gold-filled Clip Backs (Dangle w/ball) $36 each
(base metal: sterling silver)
14KGFFCB 14K Gold-filled Clip Backs (Fixed w/pad) $36 each
(base metal: sterling silver)

14KDCB 14K Gold Clip Backs (Dangle w/ball) $200 each
14KFCB 14K Gold Clip Back (Fixed w/pad) $180 each

Pin Finding Options

Our pins come outfitted with one of three possible pin findings. The first is the simple Clutch. These pins function best as lapel pins or tie tacs. A simple 3/8" 18ga stem projects perpendicularly from the back of the design element and is capped off with a removable mechanical clutch. The second is the Stick Pin. This elegant throwback to the days when pins were high fashion, sets the ornament high atop an elongated stem. This stem passes twice through the garment and terminates with a visible, small friction pin cap. The final and most traditional pin configuration is the Bar. It uses a coiled, spring-action finding that runs the breadth of the broach and is ultimately positioned in a retaining hook. When selecting a pin, make sure to note the style of finding used before finalizing your purchase. For further clarification, depictions of all three are provided below.

Swarovski Crystals

Swarovski Crystal Colors

A score of vibrant colors are available for you to choose from as you customize your Black Mountain Magic Jewelry with high quality Swarovski Crystals. Download photo quality images of these beautiful drops of light in the "Tailoring Your Order" file above. (Want to know more about Daniel Swarovski and his crystal empire? Click Here.)

Swarovski Color Spectra

Here are a number of proven color combinations to choose from. The Black Mountain Magic Jewelry designs with seven or more crystals in them can be made in any of the combinations below. "Enchanting" and "Irresistible" designs can be made in the four crystal spectra below, alternating two different colors or comprised of four entirely different colors of your own selection.

Awareness Ribbons

Customize your own Awareness Ribbon in honor of the person or cause closest to your heart. Select the birthstone or cause-color of your choice to personalize your very own sterling silver memorial ensignia.  Available as either a Pendant, or Clutch Pin.  Below you will see commonly used cause-color combinations. Click Here for additional information regarding current Awareness Ribbons and their symbolism.


Support Our Troops Ribbon


Patriotism Ribbon


Gay Pride Ribbon

Popular Awareness Ribbon Cause-Colors*:

  • Red/White/Blue: Patriotism and Safety.
  • Yellow (Citrine): POW/MIA, Equality, Adoptive Parent, Bladder Cancer and Endometriosis.
  • Pink (Rose Pink): Breast Cancer and Birth Parents.
  • Red:  Aids, DUI awareness, Substance Abuse and Epidermolysis Bullosa
  • Clear: Right to Life, Adoptee, Student Sexual Assault, Child Exploitation, and Free Speeh.
  • Light Blue (Light Sapphire): Prostate Cancer, Trisomy18 and Scleroderma
  • Teal (Aquamarine):  Ovarian Cancer and Myasthenia Gravis
  • Dark Blue (Dark Sapphire):  Child Abuse Prevention, Colon Cancer, Water Quality and Crime Victim Rights
  • Periwinkle (Tanzanite):  Pulmonary Hypertension
  • Purple (Amethyst): Alzheimers, Pancreatic Cancer, Domestic Violence, Children with Disabilities.
  • Green (Peridot): Health and Ecology, Organ Donor, Ovarian Cancer, Missing Children
  • Forest Green (Emerald): Tsunami Relief
  • Orange (Topaz): Hunger Awareness, Lupus and Racial Tolerance
  • Black:  In Mourning
  • Lace (Vitrail Medium): Osteoporosis
  • Silver: Children with Disabilities, Elder Abuse and Parkinson's Disease
  • Cream:  Spinal Muscular Atrophy
  • Gold (Topaz): Childhood Cancer
  • Gray: Diabetes and Brain Tumors
  • Peach: Uterine Cancer, Endometrial Cancer
  • Lt.Blue/Pink: Miscarriage
  • Clear/Gold (Topaz): Lung Cancer
  • Red/White/Red: Leukemia and Lymphoma
* Cause-Colors are represented according to their traditional name. Corresponding Black Mountain Swarovski Crystal Colors are listed in parenthesis.

In addition to the traditional Awareness Ribbon, we are proud to introduce the new triangular Gay Pride Ribbon.  Show your pride and/or support with these new ribbons.  Choose Rose Pink for Gay Pride, Black for Lesbian Pride or the Birthstone of a loved one. Available as either a Pendant, or Clutch Pin.  Click Here for additional information regarding Gay Pride colors and symbolism.

Australian Art Beads

Eight brilliant colors of Australian glass art-beads are offered to adorne our Gypsy Line. Make your Gypsy jewelry one-of-a-kind when you select the colors to match your own color palet and your own style.

Czech Glass Beads

The newest addition to our growing selection of options! These beads are made in the Czech Republic, or what was once known as Bohemia, and are famous for their seamless finish and vivid colors.

Click here to view Love Endures Necklace Sterling Silver with Czech Glass Beads.

Swarovski Pearls

6 mm Swarovski Pearls are as durable as they are desirable. Available in fabulous hues from earthy to ethereal.

Metal Gauges

Non-ferrous metals (metals that don't contain iron) are described with a system where the thinner the metal, the larger the gauge number. Thus, 22ga is much thinner than 8ga. Use the chart below to familiarize yourself with the thickness of the gauges we use, and consult it when you are in doubt as to the thicknesses indicated in the catalog. Note: due to monitor variances from compter to computer, the graphic depictions of the gauges may be inaccurate, and are supplied here for general reference purposes. When comparing the gauges used in our jewelry, use the numeric dimensons presented to the right of the wire diamgrams.


Non-Ferrous Metal Gauges

Special Gold Options

The 14K Yellow Gold that we use to make our jewelry is invariably more expensive to produce than its Sterling Silver counterparts. Silver is a relatively less expensive precious metal to work in; though, recently, it has take a strong up-turn in price. What makes one silver item more expensive than another is sometimes the amount of metal; but usually it is the degree of difficulty and corresponding time investment required to fabricate the piece. With gold, however, the amount of metal is normally the aspect that controls the price. Whenever possible, we make our gold designs a gauge down from its silver cousins. As gold is 25.7% denser than sterling silver, we can often achieve a desirable equivalent. Often the resulting product will be less "bold" than the silver, but nonetheless durable. When the downgauging does render a "lighter-looking" piece, we will invariably proportion the size of the actual elements to achieve a design whose gauge and elements are harmoniously in proportion. Simply put, if you like a design because of its elegance and proportion, then you should investigate a down-gauged version in gold. However, if what attracts you to an item is it raw bulk and "chunkiness"; then such down-gauging usually doesn't meet with the same kind of success. Below are examples of, not only different gauges, but the change in proportions we often employ when we make a design in a gauge down. The "Irregular" is a design that is composed of three different size circles that alternate: large-medium-small-medium-large...and so forth. The "Irregular" at the top is our "heavy" version and is made out of 16 gauge. Next is our standard weight version of the "Irregular" which is made from the lighter 20 gauge. When we went to gauge-down this design we went from 20 gauge to 22 gauge. In order to keep the dimensions of the actual link size in proportion to the thinner wire, we made the circles smaller in diameter. This smaller cousin to the "Irregular" was so appealing in its diminutive appearance, that it made its way into regular production as "Bubbles." At the bottom of the photograph, we can see the silver "Bubbles" and the gold "Bubbles," both of which are made from the standard 20 gauge. The final "Bubbles," at the very bottom, is made a "gauge-down" 22 gauge. Gold's denser composition not only gives it a more substantial feel, but it also imbues it with greater tensile strength and "spring." This "springiness" forces us to manufacture the links smaller than their silver counterparts, so that when they spring out, they will approximate the size of the silver design. Thus, converting a design from silver to gold is not always a direct translation but, rather, an approximation. Gold just looks and feels different from silver. Even made to the exact same specifications, the two metals are going to lend their particular qualities to the design, resulting in slightly different products. Note: not all of the designs that lend themselves to going a gauge down are yet represented in the catalog. Please fell free to contact us regarding designs you would like to see added to this gallery for your viewing (no obligation to buy is attached to such a request). Gauge-down gold items can be found in the GOLD GALLERY.

Copper Line

Fire Silver Is Back By Popular Demand!

After a couple decades off, we have resumed production of Black Mountain Copper.

Copper's excellent malleability, surface and color make it ideal for the
fabrication of many of our designs.

Unlike sterling silver and 14k gold, copper is not an alloy of metals but a pure metal. This requires the use of silver solder, which is why each solder joint shows bright silver. (Click here to learn more about pure metals.)


Copper Bracelet with Sterling Silver Solder Joint

Though copper is naturally hypo-allergenic, we use sterling silver earring findings for the strength and aesthetic appearance of silver. (Remember, most metal allergies are due to the presence of nickel. Our sterling contains no nickel, but is actually alloyed with copper.)

Freshly created copper jewelry is bright pink and quickly develops a rich red, earthy patina as it interacts with atmospheric oxygen and your individual body chemistry. Allow this to flourish on its own for a magically evolving surface treatment, or dip in your favorite tarnish remover to re-establish its original luster.


The Changing Colors of Copper: Naturally Occuring Patina (Top Left); Freshly Cleaned Copper (Bottom Right)

This wonderful metal is the perfect complement to our sterling silver and 14 karat yellow gold jewelry. Mix and match all three to create your very own unique tri-metal style.

Custom Work

We are primarily set up to produce only our 2000+ designs. It is our specialization in these designs and our specific fabrication techniques that allow us to offer the price reductions on our entire catalog of work. Our concentration on these pieces and expertise in their production methods enable us to ensure the consistent and expedient results that make it possible for us to pass cost savings on to you, our loyal customers. Custom work is always an adventure. No matter how familiar we are with a metal and how versed we are in a technique, custom work is always like re-inventing the wheel. Though we discourage most custom work in favor of supplying our clientele with our original Black Mountain designs, we do, on occasion, accept special commissions. Before you attempt to contact us regarding such custom design and fabrication work, please be aware that due to the extraordinary time commitment and considerable resource investment, the rates for custom work include, but are not limited to: $100 per hour, plus 2 times materials.


Sterling Fairie



Note: You should expect a minimum of two hours design and production time on even simple designs. Additionally, the more detailed the specifications provided by the patron, the less time and expense will be needed to complete the work. The patron will be responsible for compensation for all modifications, re-workings and for any product produced, complete or incomplete. As you might have gathered, custom work is not an endeavor to be engaged in lightly by patron or designer. There is no fee to inquire about custom assignments. While the initial consultation is free, this discussion is beneficial only if it the potential patron has already put in considerable time and consideration on the final work. Ultimately, the less you have thought about the piece, the more it will cost. Even if you don't need custom work, please visit our Specialty Gallery to enjoy custom commissionsthat we have createdin the past.


Is part or all of your purchase a Gift? If so, make sure to select "Yes" from the "Gift?" indicator field. All Gift purchases come individually gift boxed, with a silver bow and with supporting item and store information. Most importantly, Gift items come with a documenting Gift Receipt, so that the recipient will have no problem returning the item for exchange. For the environmentally conscious among you who do not wish/need to receive the extra packing material, or for items not purchased as Gifts, make sure to select the "No" field of the "Gift?" option. These items are shipped together in as few boxes as possible for their protection, and come without the bow and descriptive information (this information can always be found in the item catalog description) and without the Gift Receipt. The accompanying packing invoice serves as the Original Receipt needed in the event of a return.


Items Boxed in as Few Boxes as Possible


Gift Items Boxed Separately